Apricots, Chocolate, and Love

IN THE KITCHEN

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I am getting ready for Valentines Day, but I'm wondering: Why wait for a love holiday to make food inspired by love? 

When I think of food for Valentines Day, I think about creating a mood, a feeling, and unforgettable flavors, especially sweets.  And inspiration for these can come from anywhere. 

Decades ago, when I was becoming an in-demand chef after my restaurant had received some notoriety, I was contacted by Frank Perdue of Perdue Farms, which today is one of America’s largest chicken producers.  Frank was an innovator, and a good businessman.  He wanted to meet me because he believed my recipes could sell his chickens.

Our negotiations often took place over dinner, and one of them, at a little French restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village, was simply unforgettable.  The restaurant was La Tulipe, owned by Sally Darr.  And though it was small, it had won three stars from the New York Times and was a favorite of famous chefs like Julia Child, James Beard and Jacques Pépin.  I was a little star struck.  And La Tulipe also had the most unforgettable dessert I’ve had, the Apricot Soufflé. 

Using all the charm I could muster; I got the recipe.  And while I may have learned about this dish over a business dinner, it’s become one of my favorites at home with my husband, Todd, for romance. 

Soufflés can be intimidating.  This one isn’t.  I promise!

La Tulipe Apricot Soufflé
Ingredients:
8 oz. dried California apricots
2 1/2 cups water
1 cup sugar
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
6 large egg whites, room temperature
1 pinch of salt
Confectioner's sugar
1 cup of heavy cream, whipped
Directions:
Soak the apricots in 1 1/2 cups of water in a medium saucepan.  After two hours, add the remaining cup of water to the apricots and bring to a boil over medium heat.
Cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Cool slightly and puree in a food processor, pulsing a few times until the mix is smooth.
Place the mixture in a large bowl.  Stir 3/4 cup of the sugar, salt, and 2 tbsp. lemon juice into the puree. Cool the mixture covered for up to an hour.
Preheat the oven to 375 F.
Butter eight 1-cup soufflé molds and dust them with sugar.  You can also use a large soufflé dish.
Using folded aluminum foil, create a “collar” around the top of your souffle molds to extend the rims (see photo). 
Beat the whites of the eggs with an electric mixer until they form soft peaks.  Gradually beat in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and the remaining lemon juice. 
Fold one cup of the egg whites into the apricot puree.  Then fold the mixture back into the egg whites with a rubber spatula. 
Pour the mixture into the prepared dishes, mounding the mixture about one inch above the rim. Using a metal spatula shape the top of the mixture into a cone.
Put the soufflés in a shallow baking pan and bake for 30 minutes.  (Do NOT open the oven to “check” the soufflés.  They will be fine!)
Whip your heavy cream, set aside.
Remove the soufflés from the oven.  Sift confectioners’ sugar over the tops.  With a tbsp. make a small cavity, reserving the tops and fill it with whipped cream.
Serve immediately!

Here’s another recipe, this time it’s chocolate macarons.  And nothing says “Love!” like sweet chocolate.  In fact, chocolate and Valentine's Day probably go so well together because love of chocolate is so common! 

These macarons are elegant and go beautifully with the fruity apricot clouds you just made from La Tulipe.  (They’re also so easy, and like the souffle, and—a plus—they are gluten free!)

Chocolate Almond Macarons
Ingredients:
1 ½ cups confectioner’s sugar
1 cup ground almonds.  Almond flour is fine.
½ cup almond meal.  You may make this by pulsing sliced almonds in a blender or food processor.
3 tbls powdered cocoa
2 egg whites, room temperature
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400 F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpat.
In a medium bowl, mix sugar, ground almonds, almond meal, and cocoa.
In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until they’re frothy.
Mix eggs into your dry ingredients.  You may think the mix will be too dry.  Don’t worry.  It’s fine.
From the batter, shape into balls the size of walnuts and place them on the baking sheets, 2 inches apart.  With a spatula, lightly flatten each to make a round cookie.
Bake for 10 minutes.

When the macarons come out of the oven, they will be a bit sticky.  Not to worry!  Remove with a spatula onto a wire rack to cool.  Depending on the size of your cookies, you’ll make about two dozen smallish macarons.

Have romantic music as a backdrop and enjoy every minute of this luscious, light and airy dessert and the scrumptious chocolate macarons.  Arrange some fresh flowers and don’t pressure yourself to go with over-the-top decor.  In fact, I guarantee your home is already filled with some sweet objects that can help create a nice vignette to accompany your lovely sweets.

Rosalie Harrington is a chef and cooking instructor who started Rosalie’s Restaurant in Marblehead in 1973, which she operated for nearly 25 years. She helmed one of the first cooking shows on the Food Network and has appeared on television to share cooking for more than three decades.