Remembering Apple Butter

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It’s apple picking season, all right.  Apple cider, baked apples, apple pie, caramel apples, apples in turkey stuffing, apple sauce, apple butter.  Hmm, apple butter?  Yes, apple butter. 

Those who love the sweet condiment - like chef Mario Capone - know apple butter isn’t a butter at all.  It may have originated in Belgium and the Netherlands, but it’s considered an American tradition that is equally claimed by New Englanders as it is out west in apple-rich Washington State and even down south where apple butter has a long, deep history.  Besides apples and sugar, the spices are what give each recipe its unique identity.  Some have vinegar, while some have lemon juice or even beet juice.  Most have nutmeg, cinnamon or allspice.  Vanilla is often involved.

Capone, executive chef at the Great Marsh Brewing Company in Essex, has an annual tradition with his making of apple butter.  Every year, the James Beard-nominated chef, who worked for years alongside Lydia Shire (one of Boston’s most storied and cherished chefs), and his three sons go apple picking. When they get home, they make apple crisp.  But then they also make apple butter together, and it’s become tradition to eat it all week long on toast for breakfast.

We made it.  It’s a great take on apple butter, with ginger and sweet wine.  The finished product is incredibly versatile.  Besides toast or pancakes, this apple butter was fantastic with savory dishes such as roasted chicken (braised with apple butter at the end, or served as an accompaniment at the table) and on roasted vegetables.

Chef Mario Capone’s Apple Butter 

Ingredients

  • 6 apples 
  • 1/4 cup apple cider
  • 1/4 cup sauterne
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp. fresh ginger
  • 1 star anise
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Juice of half a lemon

Directions

  • Peel and dice apples.
  • Combine all ingredients in a pot.
  • Cook on low-medium heat until soft (about 20-25 minutes).
  • Mash with hand masher, then chill.
  • Enjoy.

great marsh brewing company, mario capone, apple butter, food, recipes